Friday, 9 August
Today we stayed in Ostend as it’s still very windy. We had planned to stay 2 nights anyway but someone needs to go up the mast to fetch that main halyard before we can sail again, and that someone is me!
As it was still a bit rainy we first took the tram for the short trip into Ostend to have a look around. We have both been here before, but mostly just to take the ferry to England and back in our teens.
Sadly the Channel Tunnel has put paid to the ferries and they don’t come here anymore, or to ZeeBrugge. A sad loss of a Belgian-UK connection.
There’s a big beach, with the wind it was quite empty, but there was some good surf.
We saw some questionable public art
And had moules-frites, because that is what you do in Belgium.
We visited the beautiful neo-gothic Cathedral built to replace the one that burned down. Building work started in 1899 and was completed in 1908 – a pretty impressive building schedule.
The stained glass was destroyed in WWII, which I actually think was a blessing as it has ALL been replaced by pretty much the best modern stained glass I have seen. Every window has been filled giving a rich medieval feel to the whole church.
It was completed in the 1950s by Belgian glass artist Michael Martens. It is a complete tour de force – an amazing colour-drenched space of serenity.
And the organ played for us too.
Behind the altar is a chapel for the first Queen of Belgium, Queen Louise (born Louise of Orleans). She was only 20 when she married the first king of Belgium, Leopold I, 42, after his first wife died.
While he visited the Ardennes, Louise loved Ostend, where she enjoyed swimming in the sea and collecting shells off the beach. She also supported Belgian lace makers who were in decline in the 1830s.
She died in Ostend in 1850, and although they built her this magnificent tomb, she was actually buried at Laeken with the rest of the Belgian royal family. So the tomb lies empty.
Then we went back to the boat as although it’s still a bit windy, it’s nice and sunny and there’s that small question of getting that halyard down.
I did go up the Contessa mast when I was around 28 – the Contessa mast is 13m high. I am now 59 and La Bamba is 21m high. Still it’s good to always reach for new heights!
No bosun’s chair this time, so I did it in a climbing harness. We used the gennaker halyard tied to me with a bowline (and 2 half hitches) with the cutter halyard on me as well as a back up.
David had the easy job of pushing the electric winch button!
It’s a long way down:
The worst bit was when I took my phone out to take a photo – I could only use one hand and I was terrified I would drop it!
I collected the errant halyard and David lowered me down very smoothly. Then I had a very needed cup of tea!
All set for France tomorrow!
Did you get electrocuted?
No I didn’t 😂
Leopold’s first wife was Caroline daughter of George IV with an elaborate tomb in Windsor!
You are very, very brave 👏 🤩