Tuesday, 16 July
We set out on a flat sea with no wind. After yesterday’s blow it was like a different country.
And indeed it soon was as Torekov was our last port in Sweden as we now head towards Gilleleje on the top of Zealand in Denmark.
The wind filled in and we turned off the motor, furled out the jib and were soon gliding along at 6 knots.
We swapped our courtesy flags when we left Swedish waters.
There was some current wooshing out of the neck of the Oresund and gentle rain started as we approached the shipping lanes. Nothing came close.
We moored rafted up to yacht Kismet in Gilleleje (if you can pronounce it you’re doing better than me!)
and went for lunch where Alex and I had 4 different types of herring! David had fish and prawns.
A very nice lady called Kerstin chatted to us about sailing and where to stop, everyone has been so friendly, and she also gave us a tip to visit the museum before 4 when it shuts, which we did.
Gilleleje is a fishing town (50 working boats today) and made a lot of money in its heyday from the herring trade. The front looks very business like with large fishing boats in and out of the water, but just back from the shore are pretty thatched cottages with picket fences and manicured gardens – very chic.
The museum was amazing with lots of information, boats and all things fishing:
There was also a cobbler’s cottage with original furniture:
And there was a special exhibition on the evacuation of 1200 Jews from Gilleleje to Sweden In October 1943.
It was a dramatic story of resistance workers helping evacuate the fleeing Jews, who suddenly needed to escape when the Germans fully took over from the Danish administration who had been turning a blind eye to many of Hitler’s edicts. Many came up from nearby Copenhagen, some children were given sleeping pills or left behind so that they didn’t cry and give the game away.
There was a lot of heroism from the fishermen many who did several journeys in the dark, and a few were imprisoned for their actions. Some Jews hiding in the church were betrayed, but most got away – 20% of all the Jews in Denmark escaped through this little port.
We walked up to the church and admired the most beautiful graveyard I have ever seen
It started raining again so we relaxed on La Bamba.
Brilliant history of Gillejeje, I am so happy to learn of those places that are definitely more off the beaten track from the blog! Thank you for writing it up 🙂
P.S. I am extremely jealous of all the herring you get to sample!
Congratulations on country number 2, crew of La Bamba. Wishing you fair winds and safe passage to many more! Great blog, Eleanor. The museum looked fascinating!
Brilliant history of Gilleleje, I feel like I am learning so much about places slightly more off the beaten track from your blog! Thank you for sharing it all with us 🙂
P.S. I am very jealous of all the herring you get to eat x
This is much easier to comment and thank you for such a lovely blog. I suppose it’s Galilee in a Danish accent? An appropriate place for rescuing the Jews. What a beautiful place.
Love the history of sea side towns. WWII had a lot of busy activity in that area with refugees and resistance movements. Some day I must visit