Funchal

Friday and Saturday 4-5 September

Because our marina is in the back end of nowhere we are heading for the big city to see the capital Funchal and will stay overnight in a hotel.

The Cathedral has a very fine Mujédar ceiling

We popped into the Cathedral which was pretty much the first big project after the claiming of the island for the Portuguese in 1418, and was completed in 1514.

There’s a fine altar painting
It’s built from quarried volcanic rock

Our taxi driver told us to go up on the cable car, so we did. It goes up 560m to the Monte above Funchal.

Up we go

We went to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden. Originally the grounds of the British Consul, Charles Murray, this enormous estate became the Monte Palace hotel. A century later, in 1987, José Bernado had the vision and philanthropy to transform the gardens into the tropical delight it is today.

There’s a vast mineral collection.

A huge collection!

And lovely views over the town of Funchal.

The garden is divided into various themes, 

The Portuguese in Japan in tiles!
Up we go again!
Some mad follies

There are flamingos

A very fine duck

And tiled panels telling the history of Portugal.

Expulsion of the Jesuits on this one
Troubadours and the creation of the first university
A lot of them had ‘Guerras com os mouros’ – wars with the moors

It was cloudy at first but then the sun came out.

Pineapple

Back in Funchal we enjoyed the rooftop pool at the hotel

A nice central hotel

The town is smart with typical Portuguese paving

The shops here sell some interesting things.

Pottery is a matter of taste…
A boomerang …..from Madeira?

Who knew you get your religious statues in the kitchen shop?

Madonna with your pans anyone?
I didn’t realise Jesus was such a big baby…

There’s a lovely community feel here, just like the rest of the Iberian peninsular, and we enjoyed the street singing as much as they were obviously enjoying themselves.

Music is such a unifier, everyone was smiling and loving the sing along, even if they didn’t know the words. We need more music in schools, not such formal music lessons either – everyone should be encouraged to sing or play together, it is so good for community cohesion and joy.

The small marina here is full which is why we can’t stay here

On Saturday we walked through the market.

Strange fish from the deep!
These are the sort David hopes to catch
He hasn’t got a knife like this though!

Then we headed up the hill again on the eggs and took another one down to the Botanical garden that has collections of plants from around the world.

Another lovely garden
A fine cockerel

They also have a taxidermy collection.

Lots of dead birds

And fossils from the lime stone deposits that were formed 7 million years ago when the island was first pushed up as a shallow sea by volcanic action.

Ancient sea bed now up the hill

This limestone has been used for mortar and building construction but is now mostly protected as a geological phenomenon.

Bromeliads and orchids
Enormous cacti

We decided to come back down the hill in a basket sledge.

That’s our vehicle
Carreiros heading for action, with the queue

This is the most touristy thing here and the queue was pretty long. These wicker baskets used to be a common form of transportation for goods and for gentle folk in Madeira – uphill too apparently which is hard to imagine, it’s very steep!

It was well worth the queue as it was completely hilarious. You miss parked cars by a whisker and seem to be about to hit a wall or go into the deep gutters on either side of the narrow winding roads at a pretty breakneck speed. 

It was great fun!
It’s completely mad!

Our drivers have rubber shoes and seem pretty relaxed about going down sideways. We could smell the wooden runners heating up with friction but we didn’t see any flames!

Walking down the rest of the way

They stop after 2km and I think they used to go all the way as we walked on down equally steep streets into town. It probably took too long to get the Carreiros and their baskets back up the hill.

David met Ronaldo…

We will have a quiet day tomorrow and set off for Lanzarote crack of dawn on the 7th. I can’t believe that will be our final destination! (For now)