Rounding Cape Finisterre

Muxia to A Pobra do Caramiñal 55nm

Sunday 16 August 

At 7am the wind in the marina was only 12-15 knots and the howling in the rigging had stopped, so we made the brave decision to head out round Cape Finisterre on the Costa da Morte.

Leaving at dawn

After waiting for dawn, we headed out of the Ria in a steady 20 knots of wind and put two reefs in the main. 

Serious sailing

We started with the stay sail as we were feeling apprehensive but soon switched to the Yankee.

Cape approaching
Two reefs in the mainsail

Cape Finisterre is a notorious wind acceleration zone as winds turn the corner at the end of the North Spanish coast and as the Atlantic Ocean gets confused because it can no longer roll on into the Bay of Biscay, so the seas can get rough.

We even wore our sailing coats!

Whizzing along!
It’s actually a lot of fun!

The Cape didn’t disappoint – there were big rolling seas and steady gusts of 27 knots. David says he saw 30 knots.

Cape Finisterre and beyond

We had the wind behind us and we relaxed after the gybe and enjoyed the dramatic scenery.

Waves coming from behind after the gybe

We took turns on the helm, the sea was a bit rolly and the gybe a bit close for Greta we thought.

Beautiful and dramatic
Penny helming off Finisterre
Keeping an eye on that gybe

As soon as we were round the Cape, the seas calmed dramatically and the wind died down. Eventually dying altogether and we ended up motoring for a bit!

A beautiful day’s sailing
Plenty of time for a cup of tea

Gladly the wind returned and we enjoyed a very lovely sail in flatter seas, eventually turning into the pretty Ria da Arousa. 

Flat seas again

The Ria was beautiful with completely calm water and 18 knots of wind. We stormed up the Ria at 7-9 knots. We saw leaping dolphins but unlike the friendly Brittany ones they didn’t come over to play.

Into the Ria

Very suddenly the wind died to nothing and, as we were close to port, we took the main down, only for the wind to fill in to 12 knots from a different angle. The wind is very unpredictable here!

A very different day from how it started!

There’s a large marina in the medium sized town of A Pobra do Caraminal (hard to say that after a glass of wine!) and we had arrived in fiesta week. we are not completely sure what it was all about. We think it was something to do with fishing for shell fish.

A band!

Fortunately, because we had eaten early (9pm with the other English) we were wandering back to the boat when the streets suddenly filled with the people following the Madonna to the church.

Madonna carried by the women in the guild of collecting seafood, they are carrying the tool they use to prise them off the rocks

And there was a wonderful military band with 5 saxophones and exceptional drumming

Just look at those spats!
And then they started singing!
Safely at the church…with the giants…

Of course we had to follow it and then waited for them to march and play very very quickly on the way back. Everybody lined the street to show the band their appreciation.

Waiting for the band to come back
The town hall

What a lovely community! However the throbbing music from the fair into the wee hours was a bit loud!

The fishing marina just next to ours

This evening we welcomed Max onto the boat today – he managed to find us out here right on the edge of Spain! He’s Mark’s step-son (Mark was part of our start crew) and new to sailing.